Відео

ahaha yes!!!

Hi - thanks for your feedback. Yes, properly designed electronics can withstand those temperatures but I am not sure the Onkyo qualifies as such :) I'm not a designer but I suspect that adding ventilation is much, much cheaper than "properly design and manufacture" a unit. BTW: only after the video I realised that that Onkyo was actually faulty! I'll make another video at some point.

Take it to someone for a good clean! :)

Oh no, the Lapsun was better in everything including image quality - I think I mention that in the video at some point. UA-cam adds compression so it might be not as obvious. It's been a while since that video so I do not know what's new on the market. I can only say I am super happy with this scope. It works 100%, I feel the picture quality is very good - I've seen some more expensive scopes delivering much worse picture. But... it's China so who knows what you're going to receive! On the brutal review, I don't care! I hope I can build up a reputation where manufacturers will end up sending me their stuff because they know I'll be honest with my viewers - not because they can pay me for a good one :) Thanks for watching and good luck! :)

@@tony359 I was just doing some "pixel peeking" at 33:47 and indeed could notice the Lapsun was much cleaner with the texture detail. The next question is, on Ebay, Lapsun offers the Camera, Lens and ring light as a bundle $208, or just the camera $145. Then Lapsun offers a Parallel light zoom 20-440 ($82), which appeals to me. I am curious if the Parallel light zoom a higher quality optic, or just a higher zoom range?

@@tony359 Thank you for such a fast reply, especially on an old post. I feel like so many "reviews" out there now either sugar coat like crazy to avoid making venders mad, so they will get more venders to send them free stuff. It seems like everything is great, which honestly it isn't. Don't get me wrong, it is one thing to say, this item is good for this price range and compared to its competition of like price range, but I feel like many don't say that.

I'm afraid I am not familiar with the "parallel light zoom" type of lens. All I can share is my experience with my own Lapsun, which is reviewed in another video. For everything else you can try contacting Lapsun directly, they were helpful when I purchased the unit.

Yes I heard it's ok - but the T3A was my last Aixun ever. They wasted my time. (Also, the T3A was also supposed to be "good" but...) :)

yes, that's probably a better approach! :)

mine is probably around 2016 - It's not the best but it works and no, the vacuum doesn't reset the sleep timer I think - but how do I know, it's not being displayed. The nozzle clogs often - but that's kind of normal with a de-soldering station. Make sure it's warmed up for like 7-8 minutes before you use it and I keep it at 480C all the time as my thermometer says the de-soldering tip is actually much cooler than the station says. The iron works ok as long as you DON'T use Aoyue tips :) I opened it up once and cleaned the pump.

@@tony359 People reported getting DC Int474A+ in 2015 and DC Int701A++ in 2016. So, yeah, you’re right on the line. Both stations are the same internally except the 474 doesn’t populate the 701’s soldering iron side. I’m sure they both updated in 2015 but the more-expensive 701 took longer to sell through old inventory. The AC pump has two diaphragms while I believe the DC pump only has one. The AC version also wakes from sleep (“---“, not “Off”) and starts heating when you pull the trigger. The DC pump is powered through the trigger which another UA-camr says the switch isn’t rated for. He added a mod board to reduce the switched current through a MOSFET and restore the original trigger-wake function to his 474. I opened mine to clean the pump inside and out the moment my SRA-Solder warranty expired in 2017… but nothing improved. The pump was full of yellow dust but it did not appear to be causing my issues. I gave up desoldering and just used the fume extractor… until even that quit working later in 2017. I literally heard the airflow get slower while I was working until it stopped with the pump still running. The clog was yellow flux dust hidden in the fitting where the internal tubing connects to the external port. I couldn’t tell it was constricted because the clear inner tubing looked deceptively clean (no yellow dust) and that part was double-filtered. I removed the cover again and realized there there was no light coming through the clear internal tubing when I removed the barb cap and filter element. I shoved a watercolor brush in there and a puff of yellow dust appeared in the tube! I got excited thinking that was my issue all along but was disappointed to find it was just as bad as before. I used all the tricks. The motor simply takes too long to spool up, pulling solder away on the same side before suction is strong enough to pull from the other side of a board with plated through-holes. Of course, this breaks your heat bridge that is keeping the solder molten on the other side… so it stays put even after suction builds. Cranking the temp, adding fresh solder, and turning the board over (gravity assist!) while making sure the lead wiggles on both sides before you pull helps with some pins. I bought it specifically to get rid of that kind of tedium when desoldering large DIPs and headers, and it still wasn’t enough for power/ground on the boards I work with. I actively avoided using it as much as possible so it took years to figure out exactly what was happening and develop the hose pinch technique. I’ve seen people with the stronger DC pumps who have the exact same problem to a lesser degree. At least their’s were more useful in the first place but they’re still greatly improved by spooling up to maximum suction before pulling solder. Kainka Labs demonstrated a couple different vacuum modifications to accomplish this with his ZD-915, a similar DC pump unit. I shared the hose-pinch trick in the comments to another Aoyue video and got a reply from someone with the DC pump saying it changed everything for him. I’ve since moved to a foot pedal and solenoid to control mine but the hose-pinch doesn’t require any mods… though you may want to graft a third arm to assist. ;) Funny you should mention a 7-8 minute warm up: I set my sleep timer to 8 minutes specifically and use it like an egg timer. As soon as it sleeps I pull the trigger to wake it back up and I know it’s almost time to begin desoldering. You are absolutely right about the tip temperature but it’s also not very reactive to high thermal loads, requiring me to run it dangerously hot most of the time. To limit how much time a power or ground connection is in contact with a 480° tip, I often preheat those to a safe temperature with my regular iron, which is difficult to juggle without that body modification I mentioned (do recommend!).

Now I cannot remember how many diaphragms mine has - I might be confusing with my old hot air station which also had a diaphragm pump. Yellow dust? I had yellow goo, not dust! I cannot complain too much about mine though. It needs constant attention: clean the sucking hot pipe, the metal "spring" and keep the gaskets lubricated and clean. When that's done, I can hear the air being sucked in. I often take the tip close to my ear to confirm (one day I'll burn my ears): no "sucking" noise means I need to stop and clean it. While I'd love a better one, mine is totally usable. It's Aoyue. It's random. I got lucky apparently :) And no, I don't think mine can be woken up by the trigger but I cannot be 100% sure. I normally have to push on the middle button.

@@tony359 It makes the sound but takes too long build enough suction to clear both sides. It eventually gets there, but not until the solder on the same side has come through, breaking the heat bridge and sucking air that cools everything else. Suction increases as the pump builds speed and removes air from the station’s own lines but that half-second is too gradual. By the time it’s strong enough to pull solder from the other side the surface solder has already gone through the tip and it’s pulling air, cooling the lead and tip causing the remaining solder to solidify on the other side. It needs to pull right away with enough suction to clear everything while it’s still molten on both sides. Pinching/releasing the hose while holding the trigger can do this… awkwardly. Yeah, I was using MG Chemicals 845 Rosin flux and their 60/40 RA flux solder at the time, which made a bright yellow chalky dry dust. One thing that annoyed me is that they included the silicon grease labeled “for cleaning desoldering gun” without any instructions on what to grease or how you “clean” with it. After pouring through my own manuals and quick start guides, I downloaded multiple versions online and all you could get was that it’s “for cleaning.” The only cleaning instructions just tell you how to use the drill and pin for clearing the pipe… no mention of the silicon grease. I even dug up Hakko’s manuals to see if they have instructions for cleaning with silicon grease, but they don’t. Eventually I figured it was most likely to coat the spring and seal the collection tube AFTER cleaning, so that’s how I still use it today.

Interesting. You can hear the noise mine does in my videos - which one I don't know but whenever I de-solder something :) I can very much understand what you say about the joint cooling down if the solder is not being sucked away fast. Ah and I see what you mean about the yellow dust - my MG chemical braid has the same. And yes, I also realised the silicone grease was to "protect" parts after cleaning. I've been thinking of getting a better one for a while - they just cost a fortune and this honestly works without pinching the tube! :)

Yes, that is probably what's happening as if the tip is grounded it shouldn't show a voltage on it! My DMM can only go down to 0.5 Ohm. Thanks for sharing your experience - too bad the T3A turned out to be like that!

Nice channel - so many videos! Susbscribed! I found at least one of those PS4 videos - I'm puzzled! You pre-heated the board to only 107C. Then you use hot air (what temp and airflow would you use on the station?) keeping it farther than I would - this will definitely help in heating up the PCB as well, which is crucial. I suppose in your scenario the idea is "I use low temp and keep the nozzle away so the APU **AND** the PCB slowly heat up over many minutes. What I did, I focussed the heat on top of the APU ending up overheating the APU which was unable to pass that heat to the PCB. Some thoughts: 1. I can also use some kapton on top of the APU - that might shield some of the most dangerous heat. I'm actually wondering if I should get a thin square of copper to keep on top of the ICs as a shield, so that the hot air heats primarily the PCB and not the IC. 2. I should keep the nozzle further away from the IC - at least with those massive ICs where the nozzle is just not big enough to heat up the PCB Is your Quick the DE or DW model? Finally, I see your PS4 has a smaller footprint which fits on the pre-heater. Sorry for the long message - and thanks for your comment!

@@tony359 I emailed you some links to my videos and my notes on how I did it.

Got it, thank you. It's very kind of you to share your knowledge and to invest time to help me!

I always respect others'' opinions, even when they don't respect mine! Thanks for watching!

Very kind of you, thanks! I cannot give up now, I am close to master BGA, I can feel it! :)

Sure, later models all have line outputs as well! Thanks for watching!

Yes, I can agree with that: the bottom line is that I need to heat up the PCB more. The issue with these ICs is that they're as big as the nozzle is and that's the biggest nozzle you can buy. I need something larger so hot air also goes on the PCB. Thank you!

Thanks again!

what is FE?

@@tony359 98 first edition. You want 98se or second edition if you want to run 98

ahahaha the temptation was strong, trust me! :) (It would have probably resulted in a more entertaining video, the heatsink falling on the board, zoom in on the missing components, zoom in on my eye twitching and then wide shot of me throwing everything out of the window - thanks for watching!) 😂

I baked it for 5 hours - The problem with 12 hours is that I use my pre-heater (with a hood) to bake it and I don't feel like leaving it unsupervised. I'd need a proper oven and I don't have space for that. But thanks for your input!

@@tony359 A cheap toaster oven will do tbh, they keep temps pretty low at 70-100C so it won't burn anything down.

Of course - I just don't have space for an oven! :) Particularly because I seldom do BGA and I cannot justify that amount of space used.

@@tony359 I justify it being a 2 in 1 machine. It can bake powder coated metals + pre-heat boards!

I would definitely get one if I had more space. It can be useful. To dry a board for example. But when you start walking on stuff you have to prioritise what to get and what not to get :)

I think I found it on elektrotanya! Good luck!

@@tony359 thank you. In my case I have the 3.3V rail, but no obvious bulging capacitor, and absolutely no visible reaction when pressing any of the buttons. Could hear a buzz some time ago after a few hours of running, but this morning I woke up to sounds of relay, unplugged it, and it never did anything else ever since. Probably will cost a few hundred bucks/euros to repair, which is borderline uneconomical. Could be a good learning opportunity though:)

follow the service menu, it will tell you what's happened - hopefully.

Good troubleshooting tip, thank you!

that's amazing to hear, thanks for visiting!

It could be but the thing is that in an oven you heat up things very uniformly - I think. The purpose of the hot air is to direct the heat away from sensitive components. A plastic connector will melt at 250C - but an IC will not. My guess is that if you reflow a board in an oven at 300C, it will also popcorn. But I cannot be sure. Sorin usually deals with small ICs. Those are much simpler to work with: the heat immediately transfers to the substrate and reaches the solder balls. When it comes to large components, they are basically insulating the balls from the heat. My 2p opinion of course, who gives me the right to say all this if my process doesn't work :)

'cause it's fun but it also means more work :)

I very much agree with you!

Your comment made me think. I think one reason why this fails is that the APU is quite large and the largest nozzle I can get (45x45) is not large enough, that is, it barely covers the APU and does not cover some of the nearby PCB. As you say, I need to get heat at the solder balls, not the top of the IC. Some thoughts I've just had 1. Keep the nozzle farther away. That way the hot air will reach more PCB as well (my station is pretty powerful, it's the 200L/m version) 2. Install a (1mm?) copper rectangle on top of the APU. That will somehow shield the APU a bit and let the hot air get to the PCB. I think I see this on some videos sometimes? 3. The reason why "IR heaters" are more succesfull is that they are much bigger, they heat up a larger area - hence the heat reaches the underneath. 4. Crank up the pre-heater 5. Install a not-too-fine metal mesh under the board with an opening around the APU. That might allow to turn up the pre-heater so the area under the APU gets hotter without having to overheat the whole board Food for thoughts! :)

Indeed - though it's high time to see some results! ;)

Thank you!

Yes, some videos can be frustrating (or suspicious if you want!) :)

For smaller components sure. For an HDMI port, you pre-heat and then apply heat underneath or you melt the component. Even for a capacitor, you heat up underneath. For an APU you have to warm up the whole board but yes, the "best" BGA rework stations have an additional nozzle underneath to do exactly what you say. I think I will try modding my setup so more heat is focussed underneath and particularly under the APU. Thanks!

Recently I was pointed to a dedicated solution for AVR receivers :) It's something you place on top and looks cool! But your idea also works great of course!

0201 means SMALLER? OMG! Those are just grain of dust!

Yes, even the "BGA rework machines" are nothing compared to what they use at the factory. I've also noticed a JBC pre-heater is £9000 (yes, it's not a typo) while my "BBQ grille" is £100 :) I mean, you get what you pay for :) I'll get there one day! Thanks for watching!

thank you!

I won't give up! :)

Thanks, appreciated! The journey is the fun! :)

The full sentence could not be spoken but should be clear enough :)

@@tony359 it is clear - nellculo

ahahaha!

@@tony359 Or "in the neck", which works for the English and is a subtle quasi-homophone in Italian :D

"in the neck" is the polite version, yet :)

I skimmed the video a bit - nice machine! I really don't do much BGA and I see people on the internet doing it with the same tools I have so I know it can be done. If you previously used the Aoyue I see in the video, well I see why that failed! If you check my old BGA video I analyse that station with a thermal camera: the heating element inside is never centered and the air temp ends up massively uneven - I mean like 500C on one side and 250C on the other. The Quick is a much better station and it should help a lot. An IR element (which is really not so IR but anyways, it's a heating plate) can probably be more even than the average hot air station. But kudos for the massive job, it looks like an impressive machine!

"you destroyed the PS4 but that IC removal... amazing!" :D Thanks!

@@tony359 the ps4 is not important! your learning & fun, our entertainment - that seems to have an importance to you - has! :-) am i wrong? For me it is just a question of viewpoint...

You're not wrong! Though it's cool(ER) if you can also win. But hey, we learn from our failures! My comment was only ironic!

@@tony359 irony is too difficile for me, i'm kind'a sheldon on this (only on this). you have to send me a fax to warn me before beeing ironic. :-)

oh, I can understand! And in writing "emotions" are not showing so don't worry! (Can I have your fax number please?) ;)

Oh no, I never feel better when something like that happens! :) Sorry about the HP! It now displays beautiful pictures in the monitors' heaven! ;)

Of course, the pre-heater is there to heat the board uniformly - though this PS4 is large and it inevitably overspills the heating area. I tried on the PS3 board, I mentioned that in the video but it was at the end. 200C pre-heating is probably a good course of action which I'll try soon! Cheers!

Sorry, I wrote before end. A little tip. Start with old chips, like VIA 8235. They're smalls south bridges .One day I tell you my saga trying to do this in 2005. Can you imagine any boy asking for stain balls at any Store? Rsrsrs. "Is this a joke, boy? Get out of here!" To measure pre heating, put you thermal at top of this chip. When reach 200 degrees, look the temperature that is measuring at the bottom. For example, 200 at the top and 250 at bottom. Then you start to heat the top of this chip. Never Go higher than 245 or 250. BUT!!! BUT!!! Listen, rsrsrsrsrsr! Be carefull. Sometime isn't any cracked balls. Sometimes the problem os with detaching layers.. Some connections between layers can crack. I'll suggest you to get a clamp to press the memory chip against the board. Thanks for your videos. I'm trying to film some videos by fixing my boards.

@@jonatas464 The thing with old boards is that... I want to fix them! I never end up with something "broken enough" to use as sacrificial boards! I do have 2 XBOX 360 I bought for this task. Yes, I understand what you mean. Check the temp on the IC and then look at what the pre-heater says. For the PCB to read 170C, my pre-heater has to be set to 275C. I'm aware that what the pre-heater says is only the temp at its sensor. However, it's the "thermocouple on top" which puzzles me. That won't tell you the IC temp. 3/4 of the thermocouple is touching air. That's why I am using the laser meter - but even that one will depend on the reflectivity of the surface. I'm sourcing what should be a better thermocouple. Hopefully that might help in getting some more reliable readings :) I tried applying pressure on the APU and on the RAM, it never went past the BLOD unfortunately. Thank you!

@@tony359 maybe put some thermal paste to help heat to reach IC?

well, it's too late now.. :(

Well, I don't do that very often, I cannot justify investing in BGA reworking equipment just for fun :) What do you mean with "hot air is not enough to raise the APU temp to 230"?

@@tony359 the hose and the air gun are undersized in my opinion compared with a larger square tube for bga station. Ps board are notorious for heat dissipation. Anyway using higher preheating temp is always a good option. Older honton i think you can source one used less then half price… depends on your luck :)

Well, that's the 861DE version, 200L/m. In comparison the common DW is 120L/m. And smaller "Aoyue" are 40L/m. So I should have enough juice. I just think it's a matter of heating it more and maybe a bit better. I appreciate the suggestion but I don't have space for a BGA station! :)

@@tony359 so, i have bga and the t’s not that huge, but it does it’s job. It uses hot air but it has a larger diameter. It has upper heating, lower heating and preheating plates. It’s awkward because you can only use them all 3 in the middle of the heating area… it does it’s job flawlessly. Preheating is se to 240c and i ran the reflow/desolder/solder program when i see on preheating 180c Preheating works all the time, also when the main program ia running! At the end of the program preheating reaches 240! Board is at 210c The board sits above preheating like 10cm… NOW: for your preheating, i think there you made a mistake by sealing with aluminum foil. Why? Because the temp. sensor of the preheating ia sitting right above the heating plate. Creating a chamber, will keep the hot air trapped, this will “fool” the temp sensor and the station will cut off power to the heating elements. Indeed you have 200c air underneath the pcb, but it won’t be enough to heat your pcb layers. Removing the foil will let the air circulate, temp.sensor will read correctly, and by nature the hot air will rise and heat your board, of course will suck cold air underneath but it will be rapidly become hot… i hope you understand my thoughts:)

If I don't seal the edges of the board get too cold. Sealing creates a chamber, sure, but it traps the hot air and prevents uneven heating which might warp the board. What matters is that the PCB reaches the required temperature AT THE TOP and it did - at least my laser meter said that but the thermocouple - as I explained in the video - did not agree. Next time I'll definitely try a higher pre-heating temp, I'll give it more time to evenly heat up and I'll try to get a better thermocouple. I appreciate those stations are good but I don't do BGA! :)

Well, when re-flowing I have my massive extractor or I die of toxic fumes. That's why I am mostly rely on the IR meter. But The fact that the thermocouple read 150 when I had 170 at the IR is also puzzling. After all, IR thermometers will read depending on reflectivity - so accuracy might not be great. Try measuring a shiny heatsink :) Variables! A lot! :)

unfortunately I did bake the board at 100C for a few hours. But yes, I need to pre-heat at higher temps and I am also getting a more reliable thermocouple. I did try the washer trick and no luck unfortunately. Interesting to hear about the higher humidity - in the UK humidity is on the high side most of the time indeed. Thanks for your input!

VERY interesting! That phase ends up together with all the others so... uhm........ I need to find a thermal analysis of a working board! Thank you!

I got it from Ebay, no special place. It is a must! Get a few meters, you don't need much, it will mix with the existing solder and lower the temp massively!

That definitely applies to PS3, XBOX and that era components - a PS4 APU might be faulty as you say of course but it shouldn't be a case of "they all die because of a manufacturing issue". But of course, anything is possible. I'd like to learn the process anyways though - if I can't even flow the solder, I can't even think of replacing the APU! Thanks for your input! :)

what is an "air down preheater"? Of course I'm happy to hear all other experiences. Do you mind sharing some numbers so I can compare? Thanks!

Thanks for your input!

I'm glad you feel that way despite the outcome! Cheers!